tirsdag 8. desember 2015

Grytviken - Syd Georgia - november 2015

Dette var høydepunktet på turen til Syd Georgia!
Her var min far på hvalfangst i sine unge dager for 95 år siden! Dessuten 2 av mine brødre, rundt 1960, på slutten av hvalfangsthistorien. Også Inge og Jan´s oldefar på farsiden, var her som hvalskytter før den moderne harpunen var oppfunnet.

Highlight from South Georiga!
My father was here 95 years ago, when he was in his 20ths, and two of my brothers in 1961.



En collage laget av bilder Evald har tatt. Han likte også å fotografere.  

Collage from photos taken by Evald. He also enjoyed photography :-)

 Det  var en spesiell følelse å gå i land her ... a special feeling to be here ...
Grytviken
Grytviken ligger på øya Sør Georgia i det sørlige Atlanterhavet.  Grytviken ble grunnlagt 16. november 1904 av den norske kapteinen Carl Anton Larsen som en hvalstasjon for Compañía Argentina de Pesca (Argentinas fiskekompani). Grytviken ble satt opp med argentinsk kapital, på britisk jord, med norske materialer og norsk ekspertise. Grytviken ble raskt en stor suksess og i den første fangstsessongen slaktet man 195 hvaler.
Grytviken var i over 50 år en base for industriell hvalfangst. Beskatningen av hvalbestanden var større enn hva som var forsvarlig, og etter hvert som årene gikk ble fangsten stadig mindre. Grytviken ble forlatt i desember 1965.  Rester etter hvalfangsten med hvalbein, produksjonsutstyr og hvalskuter ligger fremdeles i strandkanten.


Grytviken, (Cauldron Bay) the oldest of the whaling stations, was founded by Captain Carl Anton Larsen in 1904. On arrival in the bay or viken, the whalers found some old tri-pots (gryte) that had been left by earlier sealers. This was later to be commonly known as Pot Harbour, but is technically incorrect as the Norwegian for harbour is havn. The Louise was purchased to transport the factory buildings and accommodation down to South Georgia from Sandefjord. After the first cargo arrived, the station was up and running within five weeks!

 
Det ligger en britisk forskningsstasjon en kilometer fra Grytviken på King Edward Point, der den britiske magistraten også har sin administrasjon.
Klærna våre ble skjekket for eventuell skitt eller frø før vi fikk gå i land! 

King Edward Point nestles under Mount Duse as seen from the promontory just past Grytviken. There is no landing strip for aircraft on the island, so all stores and mail have to be delivered by sea or by an air drop from the Falkland Islands. The garrison were accommodated in the aptly named "Shackleton House Hotel" - far right. Probably the most Southerly, British run Post Office is also here at K.E.P. Visitors to the island also clear Customs and Immigration here. 

Our clothings were checked for seed and dirt before we were allowed to land on the island!


 
 
 
Her var det mye rust!! Old rust ...
 

Museum
 Museet, tidligere bestyrerboligen.

In 1995 one family returned to the town - Tim and Pauline Carr. They have established a museum in the former quarters of management and with the help of volunteers renovated the church in 1996 - 1998. Now the church serves as one of tourist attractions in the beautiful South Georgia.

Postkontoret, Post office
 
I 1910 var sjømannspresten i Buenos Aires Ivar Welle første prest til å besøke hvalfangststasjonene på Sør-Georgia.
To år senere fikk Kristen Løken ansettelse som prest og foredragsholder i Grytviken. 24. november 1913 begynte oppføringen av en kirke i Grytviken,  levert av Strømmen trevarefabrikk, og denne ble innviet 1. juledag samme år.
De neste årene skiftet prestene hyppig, mye på grunn av ensomhet og øyas fjerne beliggenhet. Det er for det meste teologistudenter som tar jobben som øyas prest.
Fra starten i 1912 bekostet Carl Anton Larsen kostnadene til driften av kirken og senere ble det et kortvarig spleiselag mellom hvalfangstselskapene. I en lengre periode er stedet uten fast prest og i 1928 overtar Den norske Sjømannsmisjonen. Tre år senere er hele hvalfangstnæringen i dyp krise og hele prestegjerningen på øya blir avviklet. På 1950-tallet etableres det en diakontjeneste og langfredag 1960 avholdes den siste offisielle norske gudstjenesten i Grytviken kirke.
Kirken forfaller i årene som går, men blir på slutten av 1990-tallet pusset opp da kirken anses som et viktig norsk kulturminne.

Larsen wanted to develop a true town in Grytviken - and, of course, a town needs a church.
Wooden church for the far Antarctic island was prefabricated in Norway, shipped to Grytviken and built here in 1913. Church is located in the village - but still a bit out of it, closer to the mountains.
The church is comparatively simple - but this white, Neo-Gothic structure looked magnificent among the simple, red colored industrial buildings. The majestic Allardyce Range serves as a backdrop behind the building.
First (and the only) pastor in the church was Kristen Loken - he served here until 1931. He recognized though that the church was not the priority for whalers of Grytviken.
In his time here was conducted a funeral ceremony of one of the great explorers of Antarctica - Sir Ernest Shackleton, Shackleton is buried in the church cemetery now.
The first marriage in the church was held on February 24, 1924 - A.G.N. Jones and Vera Riches were married here. Several more marriages have taken place here - the last one in 2006. Occasional church services still are held here.
 
  

 

 

 

 

 

  

Kirkegården, the churchyard

  

 
Grytviken er sterkt koblet til Ernest Henry Shackletons liv. Her fikk han hjelp etter sin mislykkede ekspedisjon, Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition, til øya Elephant Island hvor hans skip «Endurance» ble innstengt av pakkis. Shackleton ligger gravlagt på kirkegården i Grytviken etter at han døde til sjøs av hjerteattak i 1922 på en senere ekspedisjon med RYS «Quest».
Grytviken is the whaling station made famous by Shackleton's reunion with civilization on South Georgia after losing his ship, the Endurance, to Antarctic pack ice in 1915. Toast "Bring 'em Back Shack" at his gravesite in a small cemetery overlooking the bay. Although the grave of Ernest Shackleton can be found in the little graveyard here, Grytviken is not the whaling station where he finally found help after his epic journey. This was at the nearby Stromness whaling station.  


 


 
Vraket til båten som fraktet kull til Grytviken, Wreck of the boat that carried coal to Grytviken
  

 
 
  

  

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

 

 

  
Selv her har det vært taggere: "Blueberry Cookery" :-)

 

 

 

 

 
Pelssel, ikke sau ;-) Fur Seal, not a sheep :-)

 
Kasse for å fange rotter, som det fremdeles er noen av her ... boxes have been set out to catch rats
Tror han var betalt for å stå her. Flyttet seg ikke :-)
He must have been payed to stay put :-)

 
Eirik passet på zodiacene, mens vi andre fartet rundt og prøvde å få med mest mulig på de få timene vi hadde til rådighet. Her kunne jeg vært hele dagen!! Foreløpig er det mye, fin rust som er flotte fotomotiver, men asbesten er blitt fjernet, samt farlige konstruksjoner slik at turister har fått tilgang til dette kulturminnet.

Tiden gikk alt for fort,  men et flott minne å ta med hjem!

Another process though is taking place - there are more and more tourists in Antarctica and also the cultural heritage of Antarctica is valued higher than before. Asbestos has been removed from the old buildings, dangerous constructions were removed - thus adjusting the abandoned town for tourist visits. Bones of whales add to the local exotics.

Great memories to bring home!

:-)









mandag 7. desember 2015

Wild Photo expedition to South Georgia - November 2015



 


Finally, Andy and I could set out on this adventure!
Andy joined the first group who spent a week on the Falklands before the main trip to South Georgia.
I joined two others at Gardermoen Airport, and we had a long journey in front of us: first to Paris and 4 hours waiting for the flight to Santiago, nearly 14 hours, where we spent the night, then early next morning, 7 hours flight to the Falklands.

(click for large images)
 
 
The Andes, near Santiago
 
We decided to make the most of the few hours in Santiago, and took a taxi to the center of the city.
The driver communicated via Google! It took about 40 min to get into the center, so we had a lot of fun! :-)
Santiago
  
 From the car window ...
 
 
We managed to draw a few thousands pesetos from a money bank, and sat down to have some food and drink at this square in front of the Cathedral. Very much needed!
 
 
Great art!
Iglesia Catedral de Santiago

  
Beautiful
 
Peacefully 
  
 Back into the hustle and bustle ... and to the hotel for dinner and some sleep ...
 Eirik and Martin to the left, two of the expedition leaders, were at great help at the airport
 Short stop at Punta Arenas,  the capital city of Chile's southernmost region, Magallanes and the Antartica Chilena. 
After some trouble with the bus transport from the airport, we were rescued by maxi taxis and got safely to Port Stanley where I met up with Andy. 
He was pleased, although they had a lot of weather during the week; wind, rain, hail, snow ...

Wild Photo Travels trip report. I have added my photos.

What an adventure! We knew it would be good, but this trip was way over expectations.
The main expedition was our South Georgia odyssey, but we added a week extension on the Falklands for two small groups. The groups were hosted by Ole Jørgen Liodden and Roy Mangersnes, and consisted of 5 to 7 clients in each group. One group would start far south at Sea Lion Island while the other traveled northwest to Saunders.








In the afternoon we met up with the rest of our clients, partners and the WildPhoto guide team. Martin Enckell is our preferred expedition leader on these trips and also Eirik Grønningsæter joined the team with his experience from this region. In the evening we boarded the MS Polar Pioneer and  our journey towards South Georgia could begin.

Port Stanley



... no complaints :-)
Our cabin :-)

Day 1-2 – 7-8.11.2015 We had very favourable winds and not much swell so most people enjoyed the crossing eastwards. Unfortunately the lack of wind resulted in fewer seabirds following the ship, but some Wandering, Southern Royal, Black-browed and Light-mantled Sooty Albatross were photographed. Also different petrels were sighted and documented.

I maid some attempts. The ship was moving, but it kept me occupied :-)




Black-browed Albatross


Grey headed Albatross

Northern Giant Petrel
Northern Giant Petrel
Snowy Petrel
Snowy Petrel
Macaroni Penguins



Day 4 – 10.11.2015 In the morning of day 3 we passed Shag Rock and soon after we spotted Bird Island and the north western point of South Georgia.





We had to "turn our tag" before leaving/entering the ship by the zodiacs :-) Very important to know who had left or not come back!! (this shows the day I stayed on board, no 44, Andy was no 12)

Right Whale Bay
After lunch we headed to shore in Right Whale Bay for our first landing of the trip. On the beach we were welcomed by a good number of Fur Seals, Elephant Seals and King Penguins.

Fur Seal and Josh Anon
Fur Seal

Elephant Seal
Elephant Seal
King Penguins
King Penguins

With some snow still on the ground several of us took the opportunity to photograph the Kings against a white backdrop. During the afternoon is started to snow lightly and the clouds covered the dramatic mountains.

The last Zodiac left just as it was getting dark. A good start.
 
Kjekt sted for tørking av klær :-) ... handy for wet clothings :-)


Day 5 – 11.11.2015
Strong winds and a bit of rain made landing at Salisbury Plains at dusk difficult and we waited until after breakfast before heading to shore. As we landed the wind died of and the clouds scattered, leaving us with beautiful weather.
Salisbury Plain

As photography in these conditions rarely is rewarding several of us took the opportunity to enjoy the extreme wildlife density at Salisbury by talking walks in the area. In addition to the King penguins and the seals on the beach there was also a good number of the endemic South Georgia Pipit and South Georgia Pintail. Both seem to do well, as the final rat culling has been very successful.

 

An absolutely  amazing place! Like being in a nature film, expecting David Attenboroughs voice telling us what we were seeing :-)



 
 
Nursery :-)
 

 
In the evening we were lucky to get access to Prion Island. Here we would follow the boardwalk to the top of the hill. 

 
The view over By of Isles is amazing up here, but the target was the breeding Wandering Albatross. Everyone was treated with a couple of large chicks on the nest near the trail, being very photogenic. The size of this bird is difficult to grasp until you stand next to it. With a wingspan of 3,5 meters it has the widest reach of any bird in the world.
  

 
 Have to keep the wings in order ...

This Fur Seal did NOT like us! He was chasing us all the time ...
 
South Georgia Pipit, this sparrow-sized songbird lives only on South Georgia 

Day 6 – 12.11.2015
After breakfast we headed for the old Norwegian whaling station Grytviken to register at the authorities. During the few hours we spent ashore several of us enjoyed shooting the local wildlife that has taken the bay back after the whalers left it in the late 60’s. Pintails and Antarctic Terns were numerous, and also seals and penguins were found among the rusty buildings and stranded ships. Some also took the opportunity to update themselves on the dark history of whaling in the southern ocean at the local museum.
 
For me, Grytviken was the highlight on the trip. Will have to make a special blogg...
 
  
... more later :-)

The evening was spent in the small bay of Godthul. Some took the opportunity to hike up to the Gentoo rookery and got some really nice sunset colours up there. Others shot birds and seals from the zodiac while others spent all the time on the beach with Gentoos and seals. The last boat returned to the ship long after sunset.
 
  
Will they succeed??
  
Calling for a mate??
 
Lovely afternoon!!
 
Very early next morning!!
Day 7 – 13.11.2015  
St. Andrews Bay is possibly the best wildlife destination in the world and after detailed planning and a bit of luck with the weather we were able to land everyone on the beach long before sunrise. The operation started before 2am and by 3 o’clock everyone was ready to shoot. 15 minutes later, when the sun washed over the beach, thousands and thousands of King penguins and seals was covered in golden light. The photography was out of this world and we were only back for breakfast 5 hours later.


 
 Family on a morning walk :-) 
 
 Ole Jørgen Liodden, Wild Photo Travel, enjoying himself :-)

Straight out of the sea ... 

 
Fur Seal in morning sun ...

 
Roy and a cute Elephant seal cub :-)
 
Elephant Seal cubs having fun :-)
 
Happy Elephant Seal :-)
 
Safe ...

 
Overwhelming place! Too many photos from this place... 
 
Are you pleased??


 
 
After a well deserved rest mid day we landed on Moltke Harbour after lunch. This small beach is a peaceful place compared to St. Andrews, but the many Elephant seals kept everyone busy until the night.
 I was more occupied with Gentoo Penguin :-)
 
... but was charmed by these two :-)
 
 
Ole concentrated on under water photos :-)

Gold Harbour
  
 Magic! ... and a sailing boat in the background ...

Day 8 – 14.11.2015  
The weather was good and the team was on a roll, and already the next morning we did another sunrise landing. This time we had moved to another hot spot – Gold Harbour. A bit of drizzle in the early morning didn’t stop us, and as the sun broke through we were even rewarded with rainbow in front of the classic glacier backdrop. The King penguins were lined up along the river and displayed eagerly as the sun sent warm light through the colony. People spent the time onshore well and went for hikes to discover their own little paradise. Gold Harbour has many of them. 
  

 

  
Gold Harbour ... sure!
 
 Waiting for mum and dad ...
 
<3

Cooper Bay
Mid day we arrived in Cooper Bay. The area is exposed to the weather and since the conditions were favourable we went for a mid day landing at the Macaroni penguin rookery. This is one of the easiest places to see this flamboyant bird at the nesting place. A short climb over snow and tussock grass we found ourselves pretty much in the colony. Heading out some of us were also treated with a Chinstrap penguin on the nearby rocks.

 


 


South Georgia Shag

Lucky to see this on the way back. My favorite bird :-)


 

As expected the wind picked up as we headed for the Drygalski fjord in the evening. All around we saw large icebergs coming up from the Antarctic Penninsula, and they made perfect subjects for photography in the rough conditions. We decided to spend time with the icebergs and not go into the dark fjord. As the evening came to an end we were lucky to spot a small group of Chinstrap penguins on a beautiful iceberg, and we all enjoyed some great photography in the last hour of the day.


Alone ...

St Andrews Bay

Day 9 – 15.11.2015  
As the conditions seemed to improve during the night we went for another sunrise morning at St. Andrews Bay. As the sun was painting the mountains in the background everyone was scattered around the beach and enjoying their own little paradise. It was incredible to think that many travel down here without being able to land on St. Andrews due to heavy swell and strong wind, and we were able to land twice before sunrise. 

 

:-)

They were keeping an eye on our photo bags :-)

 
A lot!!!

 
+ more kept coming!!!
 

 
 Babysitter ;-)

 Filled the frame :-)


Ocean Harbour
  
As a slight contrast from St. Andrews we landed late in the evening at Ocean Harbour. The wind had picked up, but this bay was nice and sheltered. Here we photographed seals and cormorants, as well as some nice landscapes from the zodiacs.

 
An old Norwegian whaling station 

 
 We circled around the wreck  in zodiac :-)

 
 My dream bird, South Georgia Shag!

 

Day 10 – 16.11.2015  
We did try for our fourth sunrise landing, but the weather was grey and wet when we got up. Therefore we waited until after breakfast before landing at Salisbury Plains. Its was still wet, but after a couple of hours the clouds lifted and we had some very nice moods as the mist and clouds covered the nearby mountains. Just as we packed up and started bringing clients back, the katabatic winds came falling from the mountains and within minutes we had 60 knot winds offshore. It did make our departure difficult, but with a sturdy expedition leader everyone was relaxed on the beach.

I stayed on board :-)

The evening was rather windy and we cruised with the ship in the Bay of Isles, shooting petrels following the ship in beautiful evening light.

Day 11 – 17.11.2015
The morning was rather brutal with a landing at a very dense Fur Seal colony. When we made it through the first ranks of territorial seals, the valley was perfect for a scenic hike or for shooting seals and Giant Storm petrels.



 I stayed on board, again!

Andy coming back ... :-)

Salisbury Plain
Being able to spend this much time on South Georgian beaches is quit unique and we wanted to make the most of it. Therefore we went for one more landing at Salisbury Plains in the afternoon on our last day. The light was very nice, but some clouds deprived us from the sunset we were hoping for.

 

 
A very special place, indeed!
Day 11-14 – 17-21.11.2015
The forecast for our crossing back to the Falklands were not very good, with strong winds straight ahead. We decided to start one day early to make sure we reached the only flight that leaves the Falklands per week, but as we started our crossing the storm died of as we were looking. It turned out to be just another normal crossing with a bit of rock and roll, but nothing big. We think most people were happy for this.
Port Stanley, the Falklands
 Farewell ...

 

 
 The Gift Shop was closed :-(

Historic building

Just one hour is not enough!
South Georgia can be a quit challenging destination due to exposure to heavy weather systems. This is one of the reasons we wanted to spend more days here, and make sure we could land on all the prime locations. In the end we were extremely lucky and spent a total of 60 hours on the beaches and did 14 landings in just over 8 days. This must be some kind of record!
 
In Santiago on the way back. Summer ahead, I was going home to enjoy winter season :-)

An incredible trip! :-))

 

 

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